Swimming Pools and Pool Accessories

Summer Start-up Guide

1. Remove all the debris from the pump and weir baskets.
2. Remove all the debris from the pool.
3. Unplug the pool cleaner.
4. Brush the walls of the pool.
5. Backwash the filter thoroughly.
6. Balance the pH to between 7.2 and 7.6.
7. Add 1 bag of Sudden Shock for every 25,000 litres.
8. Set the timer to run for summertime hours.
9. Plug in the pool cleaner once the water has circulated properly.

A Little Pool Chemistry 101:

Why is PH important?

Three reasons. First, as pH goes up, the ability of free chlorine to kill germs decreases, especially if pH is >8.0. Second, as pH goes down, especially if pH is <7.0, the ability of free chlorine to kill germs increases but the pool or hot tub/spa pipes are more likely to corrode or break down. Third, keeping the pH in the 7.2–7.8 range helps keep swimmers comfortable in the water by helping to prevent eye and skin irritation. This means keeping the pH in the 7.2–7.8 range best balances killing germs to prevent recreational water illness, the lifespan of the pipes, and swimmers’ comfort.

What does chlorine do?

Chlorine is added to the water to kill germs. But it does not work right away. If used properly, free chlorine* can kill most germs within a few minutes. CDC recommends pH 7.2–7.8 and a free chlorine concentration of at least 1 ppm in pools and at least 3 ppm in hot tubs/spas.

If using cyanuric acid, a chlorine stabilizer, or chlorine products with cyanuric acid (for example, products commonly known as dichlor or trichlor [see product label]), CDC recommends pH 7.2–7.8 and a free available chlorine concentration of at least 2 ppm in pools. CDC recommends not using cyanuric acid or chlorine products with cyanuric acid in hot tubs/spas.

* Free available chlorine is the more active form of chlorine that kills germs.

Why does chlorine need to be tested regularly?

All sorts of things can reduce chlorine concentration in pool or hot tub/spa water. Free available chlorine breaks down pee, poop, sweat, and dirt from swimmers’ bodies instead of killing germs and uses up chlorine, which means there is less to kill germs. The sunlight and hot tub/spa jets creating droplets or mists from the water also uses up free chlorine. That’s why the free chlorine concentration must be routinely tested. And remember, the time it takes for free chlorine to kill germs is also affected by the other member of the disinfection team, pH.

How do I test chlorine and pH levels in my pool?

For the everyday Joe who does not have time to do a whole chemistry course to test his/her pool, Aquachek Test Strips are quite sufficient. They test PH, Free Chlorine, Total Alkalinity and Stabilizer which are your most common indicators of a healthy pool. Ph must be between 7.2-7.8, Free chlorine between 1-3ppm, Total Alkalinity between 80-100ppm and Stabilizer between 50-100ppm. This is accomplished by dipping the test strip into the water for 10 seconds and reading the colour chart on the back of the bottle.

How often should I test chlorine and pH levels in my pool?

In your average pool where you are already treating your pool at least twice a week with Chlorine, it is not necessary to test your pool more than once a week. 

How quickly does chlorine kill common illness-causing germs?

Free chlorine kills most bacteria, such as E. coli 0157:H7, in less than a minute if its concentration and pH are maintained as CDC recommends. However, a few germs are moderately (Giardia, Hepatitis A) to very (Cryptosporidium) chlorine tolerant. The table below shows the approximate times it takes for free chlorine to kill these germs.

Free Available Chlorine Germ-Killing Timetable
E. coli 0157:H7 (Bacterium) = Less than 1 minute
Hepatitis A (Virus) = Approximately 16 minutes
Giardia (Parasite) = Approximately 45 minutes
Cryptosporidium (Parasite) = Approximately 15,300 minutes (10.6 days)
Notes:
Times based on 1 ppm free chlorine at pH 7.5 and 77°F (25°C)
These disinfection times are only for pools and hot tubs/spas that do not use cyanuric acid. Disinfection times are longer in the presence of cyanuric acid.

Advice & Tips

Why Do I Have a Green Pool?

When your pool water turns from a lovely shade of blue to a sickly green, there’s only one reason: pool algae. If it’s a light green, the algae has probably just started to take hold. But a deeper green means a bigger problem.

Algae develops when the pool’s sanitiser levels are too low. If you haven’t been keeping up with pool water testing and water balancing, or you’re not adding enough chlorine, bromine, or whatever type of sanitiser you use, you’re practically laying out the welcome mat for algae to come in and make itself at home.

How to Fix a Green Pool Fast

1. Vacuum your pool to waste
   Once you start removing algae and debris from your pool, you obviously don’t want anything you take out to make its way back in. So your first step is to vacuum the pool to Waste. Set the valve on your filter to Waste, then vacuum away, removing as much algae and sediment from the bottom of the pool as you can. Use your Hi-Vac Sweeper Brush to Vacuum your pool.
2. Brush the pool walls and floor
   Rather than just your usual, regular pool brush, it’s best to use an algae brush for this task. Algae is tough, and will stubbornly cling to the pool’s surfaces, so a heavy-duty brush works better than soft nylon bristles to remove it. Use the brush to scrub the pool walls, floor, steps, and any other surface the algae may be clinging to.
3. Test the water for pH and alkalinity
   Using test strips or a liquid test kit, test the pH and alkalinity levels. Note the levels as you’ll refer to them later.
   If you want to, you can also note the chlorine (or another sanitiser) level. We’re willing to bet it’s going to be too low or even non-existent. If the sanitiser level was where it should be, you wouldn’t be dealing with algae. It also won’t matter once you get to the next step.
4. Shock your pool with chlorine to kill algae
   This is the main event in clearing a green pool—killing the algae. Pool shock contains a high level of chlorine that will kill the algae and sanitize the pool. For the best results, use a shock that contains at least 70% available chlorine, and shock the pool twice.
   Important: Even if you normally use non-chlorine shock, you must use chlorine shock to kill algae.
   If your pool is dark green, meaning you have a larger algae infestation, we recommend shocking the pool three times. And if the colour of your green pool is reminiscent of a dark, spooky swamp, shock it four times. Remember to shock your pool at dusk or night. If you shock during the day, the sun will eat up most of the chlorine before it has a chance to kill the algae. And put your cleaning equipment in the shallow end while you shock your pool so your tools will also be sanitized. Also, treat your pool with an Algaecide at this point.
5. Run, Filter, Run!
   Once you’ve shocked the pool as many times as you’re going to shock it and treated it with an Algaecide, turn the pool pump on, and don’t turn it off until the water is completely clear. Here’s where those five days or less come in. Be patient.
   Again, you can use a pool clarifier if you want to clear it more quickly, but even if you do, be sure to run the filter for at least 24 hours to get the dead algae out of the water, and ensure the shock has fully dissipated.
6. Test, Balance, and Test Again
   When your green pool isn’t green anymore, test the water, this time not just for pH and alkalinity, but also for sanitiser. Add chemicals as needed to balance things out. Test it again to make sure everything’s as it should be, and you’re ready to enjoy your pool again.

Quick Treatment Guide

1. Remove all the debris from the pump and weir baskets.
2. Unplug the pool cleaner.
3. Brush the walls of the pool.
4. Backwash the filter thoroughly.
5. Balance the pH to 7.4.
6. Add 1 bag of Sudden Shock for every 25,000 litres.
7. Add 625 ml of Green Out for every 25,000 litres.
8. Add 300 ml Clear Blue for every 25,000 litres.
9. Run pump as normal and monitor filter pressure. Backwash as needed.
10. When clear – top up pool and plug in pool cleaner.

For severe algae infestation see section: Algae -Green Cloudy Water.

1. Use Filter Cleanse to clean the sand after algae blooms!
2. Bring a sample of water back so we can check on the water balance

1. Remove all the debris from the pump and weir baskets.
2. Unplug the pool cleaner.
3. Brush the walls of the pool. Concentrate on affected areas.
4. Backwash the filter thoroughly.
5. Balance the pH to 7.4.
6. Add 1 bag Sudden Shock for every 25,000 litres.
7. Add 625ml Black Out for every 25,000 litres.
8. Brush the affected areas regularly every couple of days.
9. Plug in pool cleaner.
10. Run pump as normal and monitor filter pressure. Backwash as needed.

1. Remove all the debris from the pump and weir baskets.
2. Unplug the pool cleaner.
3. Brush the walls of the pool, especially affected areas.
4. Backwash the filter thoroughly.
5. Balance the pH to 7.4.
6. Add 1 bag Sudden Shock for every 25,000 litres.
7. Add 625ml Green Out for every 25,000 litres.
8. Run pump as normal and monitor filter pressure. Backwash as needed.
9. When clear -top up pool and plug in pool cleaner.

For severe algae infestation see section: Algae -Green Cloudy Water.

1. Use Filter Cleanse to clean the sand after algae blooms!
2. Bring a sample of water back so we can check on the water balance

Metals are in solution; therefore, the tests were positive. Try to determine the cause and origin so that further metal contamination may be avoided…

1. It is advisable to ensure that the chlorine level is 1ppm or less when starting the treatment.
2. Add 625ml Metal Out for every 25,000 litres of pool water.
3. Do not shock treat or oxidise the pool for a week.
4. Balance the pH to between 7.2 and 7.6.
5. Ensure that the Total Alkalinity is within ideal range.
6. Always follow metal treatments with Filter Plus as per the directions on the packaging. Monitor filter pressure and backwash as required.

The test result indicates the presence of metal, although there are no other adverse indicators in the pool.

1. Advise a maintenance dose of Metal Out when bore-hole water is used or with systems which release metals into pool water, e.g. ionizers.

1. Is the pump / filtration plant working effectively and is the running time sufficient –12 hours in Summer?
2. Clean the weir and pump baskets and Backwash the filter.
3. Balance the pH to between 7.2 and 7.6.
4. Add 500ml New Aqua Dazzle for every 25,000 litres of pool water or use one Super Sheen sachet in the weir for dull water (where the bottom is still visible).
5. Run the pump for at least 12 hours and it would be advantageous to do a once-off 24-hour run.
6. Watch the filter pressure and Backwash, as necessary.

1. Clean the weir and pump baskets and Backwash the filter.
2. Balance pH to between 7.2 and 7.6.
3. Remove the pool cleaner and top up pool above normal levels –water will be lost in the process.
4. Add 500ml new Clear Blue for every 25,000 litres of pool water, for cloudy water where the bottom is not visible. For serious situations also add Drop & Vac.
5. Circulate: Disperse the product throughout the pool, then switch pump off for 12-24 hours, allowing suspended matter to drop to the bottom of the pool.
6. Waste: Manually vacuum the sediment to Waste (remove regulator valve from weir).
7. Keep filling the pool via the weir (to prevent any agitation of the sediment) during vacuuming. Do not allow the water level to drop below the weir.
8. A second vacuum may be required after 12-24 hours.
9. Once the pool is clear fill the pool to normal levels, then test and adjust pH before resuming normal operation.

Identify the colour of the water (to determine cause): Iron = greenish tint to the water (often described as Roses Lime); Copper = dark green to emerald tint to water; Manganese = violet tint to the water

1. It is advisable to ensure that the chlorine level is 1ppm or less when starting the treatment.
2. Add 625ml Metal Out for every 25,000 litres of pool water.
3. Do not shock treat or oxidise the pool for a week.
4. Balance the pH to between 7.2 and 7.6.
5. Ensure that the Total Alkalinity is within ideal range.
6. When maximum results are achieved, treat with Filter Plus as per the directions on the packaging. Monitor filter pressure and backwash as required

The cause of tinted (coloured) water is almost always due to metals in the water, now in suspension – so tests may be negative!

Treating very low pH situations = less than pH 5.5

• Should you find that you have a severely low pH situation (less than 5.5), the following steps are advised:
• NOTE: these steps may clash with standard procedures for pH correction and apply only for very low pH situations.

 CAUTION: when correcting low pH situations, it is possible that dissolved metals in the water may stain the pool surface.

Proper control of pH at all times is imperative.

1. Add 625ml Metal Out for every 25,000 litres of pool water. Circulate for 4 hours. (Preventative measure) 2. Add 250g Aqua Balance 2 for every 25,000 litres of pool water at a time. Retest after 4 hours.
2. Repeat until a pH level of around 7.0 is achieved.
3. Test and correct Total Alkalinity as required, using Aqua
4. Balance 1
5. Retest pH and correct as required.
6. Do not add high pH sanitisers (Calcium Hypochlorite) for at least a week. Using pH neutral Ultra-Chlor is advised.
7. Maintain proper pH testing and control.

It is important to select the correct enhancers for your pool.  Have a look at our diagram to help you.

How to determine whether you have the correct pump and filter for your swimming pool.  This chart will help you.

Determine the chlorinator’s desired salt level for the applicable unit. Different systems require different salt levels in order to function properly.

1. Determine the current salt level
2. Do not allow large amounts of salt to sit on the surface of the pool after adding. Brush if necessary
3. TURN OFF the chlorinator before adding salt
4. Allow salt to completely dissolve before resuming operation
5. Leave the PUMP ON to circulate the water and help dissolve the salt

Treating high pH situations –more than pH 7.8

• For a high pH situation (more than 7.8), the following steps are advised:
• NOTE: It is important to also establish the level of Total Alkalinity. pH correction with a high Total alkalinity will require the addition of more acid to correct. Handle liquid acid with due caution. Dilute the required amount of acid in a bucket of water and pour around the edges of the pool as widely as possible, with the pump in operation.

1. Add 175ml pH Reducer Liquid (or 250g Dry) for every 25,000 litres of pool water at a time. Retest after 4 hours.
2. Repeat until a pH of around 7.4 is achieved.
3. Test and correct Total Alkalinity as required, using Aqua Balance 1
4. Retest pH and correct as required.
5. Using pH neutral Ultra-Chlor as your primary sanitiser is advised.
6. Maintain proper pH testing and control.

Is the pool leaking?

1. Should you find that you must constantly prescribe additional chemicals (especially salt and stabiliser), then the most probable cause is a loss of pool water.
   1. Check whether the pool is leaking –does the customer top up more than 30 –50mm per week?
   2. Is there a severe splash out situation –kids playing a lot?
   3. Does the pool have a high bather load or chlorine demand?

Do you have the correct size of the pool?

1. Are you contra correcting each alternative time – e.g. first need Total Alkalinity then the TA too high? The pool size is wrong! Verify the dimensions!
2. If stabiliser not increasing check application and backwashing procedures.
3. If Total Alkalinity always low, check acid usage/application with customer.
4. Check pH – if very low, then refer to the next section, Very Low pH.

While standard pool chemicals like chlorine are generally safe for pets at normal levels (1–3 ppm), dogs introduce significantly more organic matter than humans, which can quickly deplete sanitizers and lead to skin or eye irritation. To maintain a pet-friendly environment, experts recommend combining standard sanitization with advanced oxidizers to manage the increased "bather load".

Maintaining a properly balanced pool with standard chlorine (1-3ppm) levels is generally safe for pets. Never allow pets in the pool for 24-48 hours after chemical shock treatments. 

Maintenance Best Practices

Treating the water is only half the battle; physical maintenance is required to protect your equipment and your pet. 

1. Shock More Frequently: One dog is often estimated to be equivalent to 3 to 50 human swimmers in terms of contaminants. You should shock the pool and add extra sanitizer after a heavy swim session with your dog.
2. Filter Care: Dog hair is the primary cause of filter clogs. Use a skimmer sock over your basket to catch hair before it reaches the pump, and rinse cartridge filters more frequently.
3. Post-Swim Rinse: Always rinse your dog with fresh water after they exit the pool to remove residual chemicals or salt that can dry out their skin or be ingested during self-grooming. 
4. Keep Chemicals Secured: Store all concentrated pool chemicals in locked, chew-proof containers. 

Supervision Is Essential

Never leave your pets unattended near a swimming pool. Even natural swimmers can get tired, disoriented, or face difficulties exiting the pool. Supervision ensures you can respond quickly if they need assistance.

Install Safety Features

To prevent accidents, consider:

• Pool fences: A high perimeter barrier keeps unsupervised pets and children out of the pool.
• Pool Cover: Solid Pool covers not only keep your kids and pets safe but they keep your pool clean, help with evapouration, allow you to set your timer to operate the pump for less time and you can keep your chemical treatments down to a minimum.
• Pool alarms: Alerts you if something, or someone, enters the pool unexpectedly.
• Ramps and steps: Provide safe, easy access for pets to exit the water.

Train Your Pet to Swim

Not all dogs are natural swimmers, and some breeds may struggle due to their body shape. Help your dog build confidence in the water with these steps:

1. Start in shallow water and encourage them with praise and treats.
2. Use a life jacket to provide buoyancy during training and swimming.
3. Practice entering and exiting the pool safely.

4. If possible, let them swim with another dog that’s already comfortable in the water.

Monitor Pool Time

Dogs may not recognise when they’re getting too tired, increasing the risk of accidents. Watch for signs of fatigue, such as their back end sinking while swimming. Provide breaks and keep fresh water nearby to prevent dehydration and discourage them from drinking pool water, which can cause stomach issues.

Post-Swim Care

Prolonged exposure to chlorine or salt water can irritate your pet’s skin, coat, and ears. After swimming:

• Rinse their coat with fresh water and apply pet conditioner if needed.
• Dry their ears thoroughly to prevent infections, especially for dogs with floppy ears.
• Check their paws for irritation and use a balm to soothe any dryness.

Plan for Holidays and Vacations

If you’re travelling or leaving your pets in someone else’s care, ensure they’re familiar with your pool safety rules. Provide clear instructions to pet sitters or house sitters about supervision, safety features, and emergency contacts.